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EZSMART Corporation, ESA/ECRA #7012690 , North York , Ontario
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EZSMART Corporation, ESA/ECRA #7012690 , North York , Ontario
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    19 Jul, 2026
    Posted by Amir Azimipour
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    What Is the Easiest Way to Cut and Strip Wire?

    Every DIY electrical project in an Ontario home involves cutting cable to length and stripping insulation off the conductors. Do it with the right tool and the job takes ten seconds per splice; do it with the wrong tool and you either nick the copper (creating a hot spot that fails later) or spend twenty minutes shaving insulation with a utility knife. This guide walks GTA homeowners through the easiest way to cut and strip wire, which tools actually work, and which techniques create the code-compliant results the Ontario Electrical Safety Code expects.

    Short answer: use a sized-notch wire stripper

    Direct answer: a wire stripper with dedicated notches for each conductor gauge (Klein T-Stripper 11055, Ideal T-6, or similar) is the fastest, cleanest, and safest option. Pick the notch that matches the conductor gauge, close the tool, rotate a quarter turn, and pull. Insulation slides off in one clean piece. No nicks.

    Reading the notch labels

    • 14 AWG — the notch usually labelled 14 SOLID. Most household lighting and general receptacle circuits.
    • 12 AWG — 20 A branch circuits (kitchen counter, laundry receptacle).
    • 10 AWG — 30 A circuits (dryer, water heater, some baseboards).
    • Solid vs stranded — use the notch labelled for your conductor type. Solid copper (NMD-90 cable) and stranded copper (flexible cord, appliance leads) use different notches on some tools.

    The four-step technique

    1. Cut the cable to length. Use the cutting jaws at the tip of the stripper, or lineman’s pliers. Leave 8-10 inches (~200-250 mm) sticking out of the box — the OESC minimum for termination.
    2. Strip the outer jacket (for NMD-90). Use a cable ripper or the utility-knife groove at the base of the stripper. Score only the outer jacket, then bend and tear it off. Do NOT cut the inner conductor insulation.
    3. Strip each conductor. Insert the conductor into the sized notch (14, 12, 10). Close firmly. Rotate the tool a quarter turn to score the insulation. Pull the tool off the conductor — the insulation slides off clean.
    4. Verify no nicks. Look at the exposed copper under good light. It should be smooth. Any nick means the conductor is compromised at that spot; re-strip a fresh length.

    Strip length: 12 mm (½ inch) for backstab-style termination (not recommended), 15-20 mm (⅝-¾ inch) for side-screw terminals, 12-15 mm for marrettes. The manufacturer’s instructions on the marrette or receptacle spell out the target length.

    Tools that work poorly for stripping

    • Utility knife. Almost always nicks the copper. Every nick becomes a hot spot over years of thermal cycling and eventually fails.
    • Kitchen scissors. Same problem, plus the scissors get dull.
    • Teeth. No. Do not laugh; we have seen it.
    • Non-sized stripper. Cheap adjustable strippers sold as “universal” work poorly on solid copper. The notch is always slightly too big or too small.

    Automatic strippers: worth it?

    Direct answer: automatic self-adjusting strippers (Klein 11061, Wera Stripper Extra) work well for a few AWG sizes but often struggle with mixed cable jackets, tight box conditions, and stranded conductor — the very situations where you need reliability. For occasional DIY use, a T-stripper is more predictable.

    The automatic strippers do save time when you are stripping dozens of conductors in a row — a professional running new circuits. For homeowner-scale work (a switch here, a receptacle there) the T-stripper wins.

    Stripping NMD-90 outer jacket (Canadian standard)

    Direct answer: NMD-90 (Canadian residential cable, replaces older Loomex) has a tough plastic outer jacket over the inner conductors. Best tool: a cable ripper (Klein 1919-2) or the ripping groove on your T-stripper. Slide the ripper along the cable, apply pressure, and it scores just the outer jacket. Peel the jacket back like a banana skin and cut it off.

    Do NOT slide a utility knife along the cable to score it — the depth is impossible to control, and half the time the knife cuts through to the inner insulation. That is a code-fail termination and a shock hazard. Use the ripper.

    Working in a tight box

    Direct answer: pull the cable and existing conductors OUT of the box before you strip anything. Working inside a cluttered box is where nicks and mistakes happen. Pull enough length out to work comfortably, strip cleanly, then fold back in when you make up the marrettes and land the terminals.

    OESC Section 12 requires enough conductor length for “free movement” — at least 150 mm past the box face. Cut cable long the first time; you can always trim back, but you cannot add length.

    Expert tip from our ESA-licensed electricians

    In our experience across GTA renovation and repair calls, the single most common cause of a bad splice is a nicked conductor from a mis-sized stripper. The nick is invisible when the splice is made — the marrette hides it. Six months later the conductor fails at the nick and the customer calls with a mysterious dead outlet. Buying a Klein or Ideal T-stripper with correct notches costs $25 and eliminates the failure mode forever. Do not save $10 on a generic stripper; you will pay more in service calls later. Same lesson as the non-contact voltage tester: the cheap version is not worth the false economy.

    Contact us

    Tackling a bigger DIY wiring project and want an ESA-certified electrician in the GTA to inspect before you close up? Call us at 416-838-9006 or visit our contact page — we will get back to you the same day.

    Amir Azimipour

    Electrician Since 2008 Journeyman Electrician Designated Master Electrician at EZSMART Corp

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