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EZSMART Corporation, ESA/ECRA #7012690 , North York , Ontario
Mon-Fri 08:00 AM - 05:00 PM
EZSMART Corporation, ESA/ECRA #7012690 , North York , Ontario
Mon-Fri 08:00 AM - 05:00 PM
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    18 Jul, 2026
    Posted by Amir Azimipour
    0 comment

    How to Install Under-Cabinet Lighting in a Kitchen?

    Under-cabinet lighting is the single upgrade that changes a Toronto kitchen more than a new backsplash or a new faucet — counter workspaces suddenly get proper task light, and the whole room reads warmer at night. This guide walks GTA homeowners through how to install under-cabinet lighting in a kitchen safely, which technology to pick, how to hide the wire runs, and what the Ontario Electrical Safety Code says about doing the work yourself or with a licensed electrician.

    Pick the right under-cabinet system first

    Direct answer: three technologies dominate the Canadian retail market — LED strip lights (adhesive-backed, driver-powered), LED puck lights (button-shaped, hardwired or plug-in), and integrated LED bars (rigid, hardwired to a wall switch). Pick the type based on how much cabinet depth you have to hide the fixture, how bright you want the counters, and whether you want a smart-home tie-in.

    • LED strip lights: best for cabinets with deep valances or a light-rail moulding to hide the strip. Cheapest option ($40-80 per kit), highest flexibility. Dimmable when paired with a compatible driver.
    • LED puck lights: best for shorter cabinet runs and spot task lighting over specific work zones. Plug-in versions are the fastest DIY.
    • Integrated LED bars: the cleanest look — a rigid aluminum housing screws to the underside of the cabinet. Usually hardwired and dimmable at the wall.
    • Smart LED strips: WiZ, Philips Hue Lightstrip, or LIFX offer app control and colour changes if you want under-counter accent lighting on top of task lighting.

    Where power comes from

    Direct answer: three power options. Plug-in via the nearest kitchen countertop receptacle is the fastest DIY route but leaves a visible cord. Hardwiring from the range-hood circuit or a nearby switch loop hides the wire but requires an ESA notification. Battery-powered puck lights work for small runs but need charging every few weeks.

    Section 26 of the Ontario Electrical Safety Code requires kitchen counter receptacles to be on 20-amp split circuits with GFCI protection, and rule 26-720 restricts how you can extend a counter circuit. Do not tap the counter split receptacle circuit for hardwired under-cabinet lighting — the extension is not permitted. Instead, extend from the range-hood dedicated circuit, from a nearby lighting circuit, or run a new dedicated 15 A branch from the panel.

    Step-by-step: plug-in LED strip install

    1. Measure every cabinet run. Add the lengths together — that is the total strip length you need to buy. Add 10% for corners and losses.
    2. Test the strip on the floor first. Uncoil the strip, plug in the driver, and confirm every LED is working before you commit adhesive to a cabinet.
    3. Clean the underside of each cabinet with alcohol wipes. The adhesive backing bonds poorly to greasy or dusty wood.
    4. Peel and stick. Press the strip firmly along the front lip of the cabinet, not the back — the shadow line the strip casts on the backsplash looks best from a front-lip mount.
    5. Join sections with corner connectors or by cutting on the marked cut-lines and soldering (or using solderless connectors) at inside corners.
    6. Run wire along cabinet undersides using low-profile plastic wire channels or by drilling small holes through cabinet dividers.
    7. Plug in the driver at the nearest receptacle. Tuck the driver behind or above a cabinet if possible.
    8. Add a dimmer inline if the driver supports it, or use a smart driver if you want app control.

    Hardwired install: what changes

    Direct answer: the strip or bar itself installs the same way. The difference is at the driver — instead of plugging into a receptacle, the driver’s line side is spliced into a new branch or a switch loop inside a junction box, and control is via a wall switch or dimmer. Every splice must be inside an accessible junction box under Section 12 of the Ontario Electrical Safety Code.

    A hardwired install with new wire needs an ESA Homeowner Wiring Notification before it is energized. If the wall behind the cabinets is finished, expect to open small drywall sections and refinish afterwards — or hire a contractor who can fish cable without opening the wall. Our post on safe dimmer install covers the LED-compatible dimmer choice for the wall control.

    Common mistakes to avoid

    Direct answer: the three mistakes that cause 90% of under-cabinet lighting complaints are (1) buying more strip than the driver can power, (2) placing the strip flush against the backsplash instead of behind the cabinet lip, and (3) using non-dimmable LEDs on a dimmable switch (or vice versa).

    Every LED strip driver has a maximum wattage. A 60 W driver cannot run 80 W of strip — it either shuts down or slowly cooks itself. Match strip length to driver rating with a 10% safety margin. For dimming, our related post on LED flicker with dimmers covers the compatibility rules that apply to under-cabinet strips too. The Electrical Safety Authority tracks improperly extended kitchen circuits as a recurring residential writeup, so respect the counter-circuit rule above.

    Expert tip from our ESA-licensed electricians

    In our experience installing under-cabinet lighting across GTA kitchens, the single detail that turns a good install into a great one is the colour temperature choice. Most homeowners default to 2700K because it matches their overhead pot lights — but under-cabinet task lighting looks much crisper at 3000-3500K, where whites read white and food colours pop. We show every customer 3000K and 4000K samples on the counter before we commit to an order. Homeowners who install 2700K under-cabinet strip almost always call us within a few months to swap it — the light works, but the counter always looks slightly dim. Choosing the right colour temperature the first time saves a re-do.

    Contact us

    Want an ESA-certified electrician to plan, wire, and dial in under-cabinet lighting in your GTA kitchen? Call us at 416-838-9006 or visit our contact page — we will get back to you the same day.

    Amir Azimipour

    Electrician Since 2008 Journeyman Electrician Designated Master Electrician at EZSMART Corp

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